Have you ever walked into your garden and found ragged holes in your flower petals or half-eaten seedlings? Earwigs might be the culprits. Learning how to get rid of earwigs in the garden doesn't require harsh chemicals or expensive treatments — a handful of simple traps and habitat changes can dramatically reduce their numbers. These pincer-sporting insects look intimidating, but they're surprisingly easy to manage once you understand what draws them in and how to push them out. If you're already dealing with other harmful pests in your garden, earwigs may be part of a bigger moisture and debris problem worth tackling all at once.

Earwigs (order Dermaptera) are nocturnal insects that hide in cool, damp spots during the day and feed at night. While they do eat some pest insects like aphids, large populations can cause real damage to soft fruits, seedlings, and ornamental flowers. The good news? You have plenty of options — from oil traps and diatomaceous earth to long-term habitat management — and most of them cost next to nothing.
This guide walks you through everything you need to know: what earwigs actually do in your garden (some of it helpful), how to remove them effectively, and how to keep them from coming back season after season.
Contents
Before you wage war on every earwig in sight, it helps to know that these insects play a dual role in your garden ecosystem. They're not purely destructive — and in small numbers, they can actually work in your favor.
Earwigs are opportunistic feeders. That means they eat both plant material and other insects. Here's what they help with:
If you're also dealing with aphids, a small earwig population may actually be helping you without you realizing it.
The problems start when populations explode. Signs of earwig damage include:
The damage looks similar to slug damage, but earwigs don't leave slime trails. Check at night with a flashlight to confirm which pest you're dealing with.
| Factor | Earwigs as Helpers | Earwigs as Pests |
|---|---|---|
| Feeding habit | Eat aphids, mites, decaying matter | Chew holes in flowers, fruits, seedlings |
| Population size | Small numbers — minimal plant damage | Large colonies — visible crop loss |
| Active period | Nighttime pest control | Nighttime plant feeding |
| Soil impact | Help decompose organic matter | No direct soil damage |
| Garden type most affected | Beneficial in compost areas | Worst in flower beds and veggie patches |
Understanding what attracts earwigs is half the battle. If your garden creates ideal conditions, they'll keep showing up no matter how many you trap.
Earwigs need three things: moisture, shelter, and food. Your garden often provides all three in abundance.
According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, integrated pest management that starts with habitat modification is the most effective and environmentally responsible approach to garden pest control.
During the day, earwigs tuck themselves into tight, dark spaces. Check these spots:
If you're gardening in raised beds, earwigs often concentrate along the inner edges where wood meets soil — a naturally damp, shaded zone.
Pro tip: Flip a few boards or pots in the morning. If you find clusters of 10+ earwigs regularly, your population is high enough to warrant action.
Ready to take action? Here's a practical approach to reducing earwig numbers quickly. These methods work best when combined.
Traps exploit earwigs' love of tight, damp hiding spots. Set them in the evening and check each morning.
Empty and reset traps daily for the first two weeks. You should see a noticeable drop in numbers within 7–10 days.
These won't eliminate earwigs entirely, but they help protect specific plants and beds:
If you're growing mint in containers, you've got a natural advantage — earwigs tend to avoid strongly aromatic herbs like mint and basil.
Trapping handles the immediate problem. Prevention keeps it from coming back. These habits make your garden far less appealing to earwigs long term.
Think of it this way: every damp hiding spot you remove is one less earwig hotel in your garden.
When you water matters almost as much as how much you water.
Warning: If you switch to morning watering and still see heavy earwig activity, check for hidden moisture sources like leaky hoses, dripping faucets, or poor gutter drainage near beds.
For gardeners dealing with earwig problems year after year, short-term fixes alone won't cut it. You need to reshape your garden's ecosystem.
Several animals eat earwigs enthusiastically. Making your garden welcoming to them creates free, ongoing pest control:
A healthy garden with diverse wildlife will naturally keep pest populations in check — earwigs included.
Your plant choices and layout affect earwig pressure more than you might think.
When planning next season's beds, think about moisture zones. Starting seeds indoors and transplanting established seedlings gives them a size advantage over earwig damage compared to direct-sowing tiny, vulnerable sprouts.
Not every earwig sighting calls for intervention. Knowing how to get rid of earwigs is important, but knowing when to leave them alone can be just as valuable.
Use this simple framework to decide your response level:
Earwigs are most active in late spring through early fall. Population peaks usually hit in June and July when conditions are warmest and dampest.
If natural methods aren't controlling a severe infestation, you have a few targeted chemical options. Use these sparingly and always follow label directions:
Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides. They'll kill earwigs but also wipe out the beneficial predators keeping other pest populations — like termites — under control. That often makes your overall pest situation worse, not better.
No — this is a myth. Earwigs have no interest in human ears and don't seek them out. The name likely comes from the shape of their hind wings, which unfold to resemble a human ear. They're harmless to people.
They can, but it's rare and not dangerous. Earwig pincers (cerci) are used for defense and mating. A pinch might feel like a mild tweak but won't break skin or transmit disease.
Earwigs prefer soft, tender plant tissue. Dahlias, zinnias, marigolds, hostas, lettuce, strawberries, and young seedlings are their top targets. Established woody plants and tough-leaved species are generally safe.
Most gardeners see a noticeable drop within 7–14 days of consistent daily trapping. Combining traps with habitat changes speeds things up. Complete control may take a full season of good practices.
They can be if they hitch a ride inside on potted plants or produce. Check plants before bringing them indoors, especially if you harden off plants by moving them between indoors and outdoors.
Food-grade diatomaceous earth is non-toxic to mammals. However, it can irritate lungs if inhaled as dust. Apply it close to the ground on calm days and keep it away from areas where children or pets play in the dirt.
Some species have wings and can fly short distances, but they rarely do. Most earwig movement happens on the ground. They spread through gardens primarily by crawling between hiding spots at night.
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About Truman Perkins
Truman Perkins is a Detroit-based SEO consultant who's been in the business for over a decade. He got his start helping friends and clients get their websites off the ground, and he continues to do so today. In his free time, Truman enjoys learning and writing about gardening - something he believes is a natural stress reliever. He lives with his wife, Jenny, and their twins in Detroit.
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