Studies show that indoor plants can reduce stress by up to 37% — and knowing how to plant a terrarium is one of the easiest ways to bring that benefit into your home. A terrarium is a small, self-contained garden inside a glass container. It takes up almost no space, needs minimal care, and looks beautiful on any shelf or desk. Whether you're a complete beginner or you've had a few failed attempts, this guide walks you through every step. Check out our gardening reviews for tool and supply recommendations while you're at it.
Terrariums come in two main types: open and closed. Open terrariums suit succulents and cacti that prefer dry conditions. Closed terrariums trap humidity and create a self-sustaining water cycle, which tropical plants and mosses love. Both styles are beginner-friendly once you understand the core principles. This guide covers both so you can choose what fits your home and lifestyle.
You'll learn what materials to gather, how to layer your container properly, which plants to choose, and how to keep your terrarium healthy long-term. By the end, you'll have everything you need to build something you're genuinely proud of.
Contents
Terrariums have been around longer than most people realize. In the 1840s, a British botanist named Nathaniel Ward accidentally discovered that plants could thrive inside sealed glass cases. He was trying to study moths and noticed that moisture and seedlings created a tiny, self-sustaining ecosystem inside his sealed jar. His invention — the Wardian case — revolutionized how botanists transported live plants across continents. Today's tabletop terrariums follow the exact same principle, just scaled down for your windowsill.
The modern terrarium revival is driven by apartment living and a desire for low-maintenance greenery. You don't need a yard or a greenhouse. You need a glass container, some soil, a few plants, and about an hour of your time.
Your choice of container type shapes everything else. Open terrariums allow moisture to evaporate, making them ideal for cacti, succulents, and air plants. Closed terrariums seal in humidity and create a self-regulating water cycle — perfect for ferns, mosses, and tropical species that love consistent moisture.
If you're brand new to this hobby, open terrariums are more forgiving. Overwatering is harder to do when moisture can escape. If you want a truly hands-off setup, a closed terrarium — once properly balanced — can go weeks without any intervention. For a complete breakdown of the sealed approach, read our guide on how to make a closed terrarium.
Pro tip: If you're unsure which type to start with, go open. Succulents are forgiving, and you'll build confidence before tackling the more complex closed system.
Spring and early summer are the best times to plant a terrarium. Plants are in active growth during these months, which means they adapt to new environments more easily. If you're working with tropical species, the naturally warm and humid air helps them settle in faster. That said, terrariums are indoor projects. You can technically start one any time of year as long as your home has decent ambient light and stable temperatures between 60°F and 80°F.
A south- or east-facing window gives most terrarium plants the bright, indirect light they need. Avoid north-facing windows if you can — the light is usually too dim for anything but the most shade-tolerant mosses.
Don't start a new terrarium right before a long trip. Newly planted terrariums need close attention during the first two to three weeks while the plants adjust. You'll want to check for mold, remove dead leaves, and fine-tune watering. Also, avoid building one if your home currently has a pest problem. Fungus gnats and mites can move into a terrarium quickly, and once they're in, they're difficult to evict without disrupting the whole setup.
Warning: Never place a closed terrarium in direct sunlight. The glass amplifies heat like a lens and can scorch or cook your plants within a matter of hours.
The most common reason terrariums fail is poor drainage. Many beginners grab regular potting soil, fill their container, and plant directly. Within weeks, the roots rot and the plants die. You need a layered system. From bottom to top: a one-to-two inch layer of pebbles or gravel for drainage, a thin layer of activated charcoal (to filter bacteria and prevent odors), a piece of fine mesh or a thin layer of sphagnum moss to separate soil from gravel, and finally your planting medium. For succulents, use cactus mix. For tropical plants, use a peat-based or coco coir mix that holds some moisture without compacting.
Don't skip the charcoal layer. It's inexpensive, and it makes a real difference in keeping the environment inside the container fresh over time.
Overwatering kills more terrariums than any disease or pest. People tend to treat them like regular houseplants and water on a fixed schedule. That's the wrong approach. For open terrariums, water only when the soil feels dry about one inch below the surface. For closed terrariums, watch the condensation on the glass walls. If you see light condensation most of the time, the moisture cycle is working. If there's no condensation for several consecutive days, add a small amount of water. If heavy condensation doesn't clear within a few hours, crack the lid for a while to release some moisture.
Pro tip: Use a spray bottle instead of a watering can. It gives you precise control and prevents you from saturating the soil all at once.
You don't need to spend much. A basic open terrarium built inside a mason jar or a repurposed fish tank can cost as little as $15 to $25 total. The container and the plants are usually the biggest expenses. Gravel, charcoal, and potting soil are all cheap and easy to find at any garden center or hardware store. If you already have a spare jar at home, your starting cost drops to almost nothing.
If you want a more polished look, geometric glass terrariums run from $25 to $80 depending on size and style. A curated selection of plants from a specialty nursery can add another $20 to $50. Premium builds featuring rare plants, driftwood, crystals, or decorative figurines can easily climb past $150. The table below breaks down realistic costs across three tiers.
| Item | Budget Build | Mid-Range | Premium |
|---|---|---|---|
| Container | $5–$15 | $25–$50 | $60–$150+ |
| Plants (3–5 varieties) | $5–$10 | $15–$30 | $30–$70 |
| Soil & Drainage Materials | $3–$6 | $8–$15 | $15–$25 |
| Activated Charcoal | $2–$4 | $4–$8 | $8–$12 |
| Decorative Elements | $0–$5 | $5–$15 | $20–$60 |
| Total Estimate | $15–$40 | $57–$118 | $133–$317 |
Whatever your budget, the value you get from a well-planted terrarium far outweighs the cost. It's a one-time investment that can last for years with minimal upkeep.
Most terrarium plants do well in bright, indirect light. Direct sun through glass overheats the container and scorches leaves, especially in a closed setup. If your space doesn't get much natural light, a basic LED grow light set to 10–12 hours per day works well. Position it six to twelve inches above the container. Avoid old-style fluorescent bulbs — they run warm and don't deliver the right light spectrum for healthy plant growth.
Rotate your terrarium a quarter turn every week or two. This prevents plants from leaning permanently toward the light source and keeps the whole display looking balanced and full.
Trim fast-growing plants before they crowd out their neighbors. Even in a small container, certain species spread aggressively. A pair of small scissors or long-handled tweezers lets you reach inside without disturbing the soil or other plants. Remove dead or yellowing leaves immediately — they invite mold if left in place. Every month or two, wipe the inside of the glass with a damp cloth to remove algae buildup and condensation residue. That's genuinely all the regular maintenance most terrariums need.
For a scaled-down take on these same principles, our guide on how to make a terrarium in a jar shows you exactly how to apply them in a smaller, simpler container.
A shallow, open bowl filled with a mix of succulents is one of the most popular styles for good reason. It's forgiving, visually striking, and works in almost any room. Use a wide-mouth glass bowl or a low geometric container. Plant three to five small succulents with contrasting shapes — a rosette type, a tall column variety, and something trailing. Add a thin top layer of colored sand or fine gravel for a clean, finished look. Our full walkthrough on how to make a succulent terrarium covers every detail of this approach.
For something lush and dramatic, a closed terrarium planted with tropical species creates a miniature jungle effect. Choose a tall, lidded glass jar or an apothecary bottle. Plant a mix of ferns, creeping mosses, and small-leafed tropicals like fittonias (also called nerve plants) or baby's tears. Add a small piece of driftwood or a smooth stone for texture. Once you seal it and the moisture cycle stabilizes, this style requires almost no maintenance — making it a beautiful long-term display for a desk or bookshelf.
Sometimes less is more. A single air plant (Tillandsia) displayed inside a small glass globe costs almost nothing and takes minutes to assemble. No soil is required — air plants absorb moisture and nutrients directly from the air around them. Mist them lightly once or twice a week and give them indirect light. It's the most hands-off version of the terrarium concept and a great entry point if you're not ready to commit to a full layered build just yet.
Succulents, cacti, and air plants are the easiest starting points for open terrariums. For closed terrariums, mosses, ferns, and nerve plants (Fittonia) are forgiving and grow well in humid conditions. Avoid large or fast-growing species in small containers — they'll quickly outgrow the space.
For open terrariums, water when the soil feels dry about one inch below the surface — usually every one to two weeks. For closed terrariums, you may only need to add water every few weeks or even monthly. Watch the condensation on the glass walls as your guide.
Almost any glass container works — mason jars, fish tanks, apothecary bottles, and geometric terrariums are all popular options. The key factors are that it's transparent (for light), clean, and large enough to fit your chosen plants without crowding them immediately.
No. Unlike outdoor pots, terrariums rely on a layered drainage system inside the container — gravel at the bottom, then charcoal, then a separator, then soil. This internal drainage layer prevents roots from sitting in standing water even without physical holes in the glass.
Most terrariums take between 30 minutes and two hours to set up, depending on the size of the container and the complexity of the design. Gathering your materials ahead of time makes the actual planting process quick and straightforward.
Mold usually signals too much moisture, poor airflow, or decaying organic matter left inside the container. For closed terrariums, crack the lid for several hours to let moisture escape. Remove any dead plant material immediately. A thin layer of activated charcoal in your drainage system also helps prevent mold from developing in the first place.
Building your first terrarium doesn't require a green thumb, a big budget, or a lot of time — just the right layering system, the right plants, and a little patience in the early weeks. Pick up a container, grab a few plants that appeal to you, and give it a try this weekend. The process is half the fun, and the result is something you'll genuinely enjoy looking at every single day.
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About Christina Lopez
Christina Lopez grew up in the scenic city of Mountain View, California. For eighteen ascetic years, she refrained from eating meat until she discovered the exquisite delicacy of chicken thighs. Christina is a city finalist competitive pingpong player, an ocean diver, and an ex-pat in England and Japan. Currently, she is a computer science doctoral student. Christina writes late at night; most of her daytime is spent enchanting her magical herb garden.
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